thursday glass

the cleanest day in recent memory, too bad the waves were so small. i'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will stay clean and hollow as the swell builds through the weekend. sunday is looking like it's gonna be macking. time to break out the board cam? hah
 
 
 
 

Labor Day @ OB

Another delayed post, gotta get back on it. Haven't been surfing enough lately, pager duty hasn't helped my motivation. In any case, scored some fun surf on a beautiful sunny labor day with Ramin & Ryan V. Maybe 'fun' isn't the right word actually, considering the 1.5x overhead mushbombs, rip currents, and brutal paddle out. Tricky conditions and it was somewhat heavy for sure, but we all caught our fair share of good rides in our ~2 hour session, and got a hell of a workout too. My best wave was a meaty right that walled up for me and I was right in the pocket, hit a few snappy turns and kicked out to avoid getting caught inside for the rest of the set. Ramin saw me from the shoulder and made a circle gesture over his head. I thought he was trying to tell me that he got barreled, but I guess it looked like I just did. I was definitely in the pocket but should've stalled instead of pumping for a top turn, then maybe Ramin's little arm gesture would've been accurate. My worst wipeout was a wave that sectioned and I attempted to backdoor, got inside but then shut down hard. Ass over teakettle, bounced off the sand, gulped a mouthful of water thinking I had surfaced, and then hit my head on my board. Smooth... Meanwhile Ramin and Ryan were both charging, catching tons of waves. I vividly remember Ramin taking a late drop and trying to pull in, just getting immediately clipped and bouncing down the face of the wave. Nothing better than seeing your friends charge and get pummeled ;) Ryan caught a really good one that walled up nicely, and Ramin and I were watching silently from the back to see if he would make the section. After a few seconds we saw Ryan rip a top turn, throwing spray out the back and Ramin and I started hooting. Good times. Hopefully we'll start getting some more sizeable waves, I really enjoyed having some powerful surf despite the choppy conditions and challenging paddle.
 
Ramin was kind enough not to skeg me on his bottom turn
 
That's Ryan's head peeking over the back of this wave
 
Dolphins dolphins and more dolphins. No whale sightings today though.

crappy tuesday

i guess it's not actually fall yet...
 
 

monday dp

onshore mushburgers this AM. caught 2 rights that held up, and one really fun left, but for the most part it wasn't worth it. brought my board with me up to Salt Point, but nothing working up there on Sunday at all. I still need to upload pics from friday, as well as last weekend! contributing to stokereport has kept me busy, I've actually broken 100 in 'karma point' which I think is a good thing...
 

Wednesday AM OB

South swell delivering some peaks at Judah this AM. Ramin was charging on his new board, so hard that he dinged the rail pretty bad. Slideshow here: http://picasaweb.google.com/CityStoke/Ob082609#
 
 
 

Monday morning OB

Still some swell showing, although the onshore winds are beating it up. A few fun little racy ones on the inside though, hopefully the wind will back off this week. This weekend was awesome, and I scored some pumping Steamer Lane, I'll post those up later when I have more time.
 
 
 

tiny, shallow & barely rideable OB

these little waves were doubling up and breaking in literally inches of water. it was tough to find a shoulder, but I caught a few before work today. lots of sea lions in the water barking at me too. they don't seem very nice.