Monday, December 28, 2009

shack float carve

Scoured the coast with Ramin yesterday in search of some clean waves, since OB was maxed out and looking unsurfable without jet-ski assist. Ended up on the west side of SC, and scored some really good waves at low tide north of the Lane. Waves were head high with some + sets, fast and hollow with a good barrel section and lots of room to carve turns. My wave of the day was a head high set wave, I faded out the bottom turn anticipating hitting the lip, but pulled up, stalled, and got a clean little shack, even looked up as it was cascading over me. Came out of the barrel, pumped, hit a floater past a section, then grabbed my rail into a big cutback and worked the rest of the wave through to the inside. Was uber stoked, paddled back out with a ridiculous grin on my face, just in time to see Ramin drop into a sick one on his new Las Olas board, absolutely flying down the line. Was a great session, made me hungry for more point break waves. So much easier to surf them well compared the the chaos at OB. I'm getting really pumped for my Indo trip in January, although I'll be with family, so will have to restrain myself from surfing the entire day away.
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Friday, December 18, 2009

oh bee ur sooo smooth

Gotta take a ride, just recline in the faraway
Got to take some time to realize
That my friends they come
And the lines they go by avoid having Puff the Magic Dragon playing on infinite loop in my head today, i listened to some Interpol while suiting up this morning.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

solitary bombs, broken semi-gun

i paddled out at Judah around 7:30 this morning. didn't see anyone else out. to be honest, i was scared. paddle out took ~20 minutes, got worked hard a few times and almost ran out of breath. just barely ducked under a couple of mean looking back to back 2x OH set waves breaking top to bottom. I drifted north quickly, snagged one massive right and rode it pretty far before kicking out to avoid the closeout section, and then got sucked too far out and spent the majority of my time trying to paddle into better position. ended up getting caught inside at Kelly's Cove, got smashed a few times, and broke the tail off of my board. Oddly I had the 'Puff the Magic Dragon' song stuck in my head the whole session. That one bomb was worth it, probably one of the largest and most powerful waves I've ever caught. Nothing like some survival surfing to start the work day...
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Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Ramin's goin away

Rainy and dreary, but some punchy little waves to be had. Ramin and I paddle out around 9:15 at Kirkham and got a few good ones. Ran into Joel walking back to the car, and then headed to the house for some gourmet frozen pizza and watched the Pipemasters competition. Good times, and happy for Ramin, doing good things with Blue Energy in Nicaragua. I'm sure I'll get to sneak a few more sessions with Ramin before he leaves. Tuesday looks like it will be offshore again...
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Friday, December 4, 2009

friday 10 am OB

took the day off, picked up some glassing supplies in Paifica, then paddled out at K St with Ramin. Pretty heavy, lots of water moving around, and 1.5x overhead sets, occasionally some bigger ones. we each snagged a good amount of fun waves, i got a realllly long right, and a handful of great drops. now we're headed up to Pt Reyes for some backpacking with Jon. Life is tough, aint it?
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Thursday, December 3, 2009

k st paparazzi

shot from the dunes this morning for 10 minutes before heading to work. some really clean waves, looked fun. ramin had to rub it in by pulling into some deep barrels and busting some floaters...get to work slacker!
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Wednesday, December 2, 2009

small but fun judah

was a lot more fun than it looked initially from the beach. paddled out with ramin and ryan v just before 7. rights holding up nicely, and some glassy ones on the north end of the beach. my best ride was a super long walled up right, hit a few cutbacks, a snap and then my lame attempt at a layback into the closeout. got some funky pics, the one of ramin at the bottom looks like maybe his soul is already in Nicaragua...spooky

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Tuesday, December 1, 2009

overgunned and underfed

k street not doing it this AM, too fat and weak. waxed up the semi-gun expecting a challenging paddle and offshore 8-10 footers, but i was waaaaay off. would've been a better day for a fishy. caught a few rides that actually connected through, but nothing exciting, mostly peaky drops and fat mushy shoulders. i imagine it was working better elsewhere, but wrong time wrong place for me this morning. ran into Nic after i got out of the water, hopefully he fares better than i.
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