i paddled out at Judah around 7:30 this morning. didn't see anyone else out. to be honest, i was scared. paddle out took ~20 minutes, got worked hard a few times and almost ran out of breath. just barely ducked under a couple of mean looking back to back 2x OH set waves breaking top to bottom. I drifted north quickly, snagged one massive right and rode it pretty far before kicking out to avoid the closeout section, and then got sucked too far out and spent the majority of my time trying to paddle into better position. ended up getting caught inside at Kelly's Cove, got smashed a few times, and broke the tail off of my board. Oddly I had the 'Puff the Magic Dragon' song stuck in my head the whole session. That one bomb was worth it, probably one of the largest and most powerful waves I've ever caught. Nothing like some survival surfing to start the work day...
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3 comments:
Oh man, second pic: HEAVY!
Sorry about the board but glad that was the only damage of the session.
wowzers, way to charge it colin!
yeah i might try and repair the board, or just copy the dims and shape my own and have it glassed super thick ;) surf tomorrow anyone? should be more manageable, but not sure what the wind is supposed to be doin
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