Monday, August 4, 2008

Session 26 - Saturday @ OB w/Ryan

Bought a new board today, one that I'm taking to Bali. It's a 6'5" JC Shane Dorian model, in almost new condition, for only $300 with a board bag. Score! The waves were choppy and disorganized, but the weather was beautiful, and Ryan was already out at Kirkham. Ran down to meet him, and surfed for a couple of hours. Ended up sitting inside for the most part and riding some of the shorebreak, some fun fast drops, but it was pretty peaky. Got to sneak in a few turns here and there, and definitely pleased with the new board. It's got more float, more drive, but turns just as quickly and intuitively as my 5'10" Rusty. Happy.

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