Tuesday, March 31, 2009

solo steamer lane dawn patrol

well i was solo for a good 30 minutes at least before 1 other guy paddled out and the crowd slowly trickled in. small waves in the 2-3 foot range, with the occasional bigger set wave connecting through. super low tide and really shallow and rocky. it was still amazing to be out there all alone hopping on every good wave that came through. most waves were pretty weak, but had enough juice to pump down the line and hit a turn or two before having to shift my weight all the way forward and crouch to finish out the ride. it's kindof fun riding my 6'5" JC like it's a fish, the board actually has some volume up front so i'm able to scoot pretty far forward. my wave of the day was a super glassy shoulder high wave that was really fast, and i was able to get slotted all the way through to indicators, getting low and letting the would-be barrel splash all over my face. it was so mellow for the lane, i love it. if only the vibe was so friendly on big days!

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