easter morning log riding; monday dawn patrol

Nothing much to recall, it was weak and mushy on Sunday morning so after a pre-dawn motorcycle ride up Mt Tam, I decided to paddle out on the longboard at OB. The waves had enough juice to catch waves, but the waves were sectiony and scattered, making it tough to find a clean face. I pearled a few times trying to take off too deep or drive through steep sections on the log. It was fun to ride the log though, I should use it more but it's just so huge that it's a lot of work to drag down to the beach from my house.

This AM I checked stokereport.com and a few guys were calling it rideable and fair, so I suited up. My shoulder was feeling a little sore so I decided to bodyboard. The waves were shoulder to head high, but pretty mixed up. I got caught in a rip and only got a few waves. The best wave was the last wave, which I rode all the way into the beach from waaaay outside. The novelty of riding a bodyboard until you're washed up all the way into dry sand never wears off...

Here's some photos of recent swell in NJ that made me a bit homesick: http://surf.transworld.net/2009/04/08/jersey-juice/

I miss the road trips in high school to skate/surf the Jersey shore, although I only scored tubes like this on one memorable early fall trip with Jon.

Also, FYI, the water housing of my GoPro camera seems to have shit the bed. I'm working on getting a replacement housing that doesn't leak, hoping it's covered under warranty. For the time being I won't be taking water shots, but maybe that's a good opportunity to focus on my surfing rather than my photography skills...