Friday, October 16, 2009

knee to face

this morning was pretty clean and head high at OB. only a couple of guys out early. a little soft on the outside, but some pitching waves on the inside, and occasionally a section would hold up really well. got a bunch of decent rides, but on one late takeoff completely blew it, went over the falls and somehow managed to smash my knee into my cheekbone. I have a little shiner, but my eye isn't bloody or anything. Looking forward to scoring some clean surf again tomorrow AM, probably will head south and go hiking afterwards.
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