black friday Huntington pier

goddamn it's been a long time since i've posted to my blog. and it's not because i haven't been surfing, if anything it's because i've scored so many good sessions and have just had so little time to post anything. i've resorted to quickly uploading and emailing out picasa pics, but i'm gonna try and revive the blog. to catch up i'll probably be posting some real short posts just to share my favorite pics from my last month of epic surf trips, everything from humboldt to hanalei bay, including some recent epic sessions at home.

for now, here are some pics that Joanie snapped from the beach at Huntington. I awoke from my Thanksgiving food coma around 6:30 this AM, but didn't hit the road till 8:30. Paddled out at the south side of the pier around 9ish, and got my fair share of waves despite the crowds. My first wave out there was really fun actually, I busted a super long floater but came unstuck on the landing. I don't think Joanie even had the camera out yet though. After battling the current for a while, I decided to get out and run back up the the pier. These pics are screen grabs from my 2nd wave off of the pier, and nice walled up right that I pulled into before it closed out on me. The waves this AM were steep little things, and after pearling a couple of times I was wishing I had brought a shorter board.