one wave session

this morning sucked. was hoping for some calm before the storm, but that wasn't the case at all. really strong south wind, whitecaps, and chaotic head high sets. nobody else out, super high tide, lots of crap washed up on the beach. paddle out was not fun, lots of whitewater to battle through, and current pulling hard north. thought i was on the outside when a big set wave detonated right in front of me. tried to duckdive and was able to hold onto my board for the initial impact, but when the wave picked me up and flipped me onto my back it blasted the board out of my hands and drove me down to the bottom. i tombstoned for a few seconds and climbed my leash back to the surface. luckily that was the last wave of the set, and I scratched my way all the way out after the hold-down. sat and waited and waited, but really just shit waves. eventually i stroked into a head high right and was able to get in a few clean turns and work it through to the inside closeout. ending my session rather than paddling back out and waiting for more slop was not a tough decision. at least i got some exercise. took zero pictures, not even a pelican portrait ;(

here's some pics from a couple of previous lackluster sessions. one of those days was actually glassy and offshore, but mostly closed out.