Monday, June 14, 2010
monday dawn patrol
rolled out of bed at 5:30, made some coffee and suited up. hit the water just before 6. south winds blowing, but not too hard. surf was jumbled on the inside, but the outer bars were actually a lot of fun. shoulder to head high sets rolling through regularly, and nobody else out except for a few sea lions patrolling. mostly rights, but a few really clean lefts as well. the new board feels good - stuck a few late drops, worked on milking as much speed as i could out of my bottom turn, and was able to find a few nice walled up sections to do some turns and hit a couple of floaters. for a while i got stuck on the inside paddling through a rip, and the current pulled me 2 blocks south. a healthy jog home after a solid 1.5 hour dawn patrol to kick off the week.
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