Saturday, August 28, 2010
Oluwalu longboarding
had to return the board at 10am, so we hopped in our sweet Chevy Malibu and drove down the coast for an early morning session down at Oluwalu. I wanted to try a different spot, but everything else was small to the point of being unrideable. I was all by my lonesome for almost the entire session, which is the best part about surfing when there's harldy any swell in a wave rich area like this. Reminded me of a few fun sessions I've had at Steamer Lane when it was too small for anyone else to bother.
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3 comments:
I miss being in Maui with you! Floating in the water, not having to wear wet suits, swimming w sea turtles, sharing kaluha pork nachos, and hunting for waves with you. Gotta savor our last three months of our spontaneous beach lifestyle while we can. And bring Gus along too!
Sounds awesome. Mmm pork nachos. Your surf blog makes me miss surfing, and Joan's ridiculous photos of food all the time on Buzz make me miss good food - damn it Bogarts!
That is an intense soul arch you're busting out on that wave.
haha yeah, you can imagine how the soul arch was actually started by losing your balance and almost falling backwards but just barely saving it...looking at the picture i'm amazed i didn't fall off. then again, i never fall. ever.
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