dead whale at K st

big whale washed up at the beach right at kirkham, so i ran back to the house to get my camera. figured it wouldn't be a brilliant idea to surf, despite not sighting any dorsal fins cruising the area. i could see the headlines now - "expectant father eaten by sharks while surfing next to dead whale". i don't want to win any Darwin awards...
 
 
 

south swell nugs

saturday was bigger than sunday, but the head high+ combo swell made for some short, fast rides at OB. ALSO, Joanie and I finally finished preparing the baby room, complete with ocean theme mural. Pics of the mural to follow...
 
 
 
 

first barrel of the fall

chest - shoulder high sets, peaky and glassy at 7am. my first session back on the WU quad and i was loving it. lots of speed, lots of wipeouts, but a few really fun rides and one little cover up to start the day
 
 

finally some waves at home

it's been a pretty poor summer here as far as surf goes, even by san francisco summer standards. to kick off the beginning of fall the weather cleared up for a few days and the surf kicked up to shoulder high. I had a fun session with Nic and another with Karl the other day, as well as a few solo sessions. Felt good to be out paddling, catching waves and taking some pictures. I'm looking forward to some nw swell and east winds, and I'm optimistic that OB will deliver this fall to make up for such a dismal summer of surf.
 
 
 

Oluwalu longboarding

had to return the board at 10am, so we hopped in our sweet Chevy Malibu and drove down the coast for an early morning session down at Oluwalu. I wanted to try a different spot, but everything else was small to the point of being unrideable. I was all by my lonesome for almost the entire session, which is the best part about surfing when there's harldy any swell in a wave rich area like this. Reminded me of a few fun sessions I've had at Steamer Lane when it was too small for anyone else to bother.
 
 
 
 

maui wauwi

practically skunked as far as surf goes, but i managed to get a few small wave sessions in. i rented a 6'4" NSP fishy thing from Local Motion in Lahaina. The people at the shop are super nice. I drove the coast and ended up surfing a little left called Oluwalu. It was teeny, so most rides I was focused on just getting enough speed to stay afloat. The swell dropped even more, so after my session I traded in the 6'4" for a 8'6".
 
 
 

dolphins

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrSvxedzKjw
this is from a session last week, the morning after watching the Cove. If you haven't seen it yet, check out the film and the website: http://www.takepart.com/thecove