Thursday, August 20, 2009

tiny, shallow & barely rideable OB

these little waves were doubling up and breaking in literally inches of water. it was tough to find a shoulder, but I caught a few before work today. lots of sea lions in the water barking at me too. they don't seem very nice.
 
 
 
 
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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

small glassy Montara

bailtown! Nic and Ramin got more sleep than I did, but I got more waves muahahaah!!! Honestly, if you didn't surf this AM you didn't miss much. OB was looking smaller but marginally cleaner than the last few days, while LM was teeny tiny, and Rockaway looking weak too. GWC looked aight, but I decided to drive over the hill and check Montara. It was definitely a fun session, only 3 other guys out around 6:30, and some punchy clean little waves. Sets were chest high, with some shoulder high standouts on occasion. A few memorable waves, a decent ride generally consisted of fading out the bottom turn to get as much speed as possible, one cutback, and then racing down the line to hit a little floater or snap into the shorebreak closout section. On one wave I stomped a little frontside air, I love the sound it makes when the board lands back on the water, kindof a thwaaap!!!
 
 
 
 
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Monday, August 17, 2009

shaping bay progress

stoked to have finally made some real headway, the walls are all painted, carpet pulled up, shoddy shaping rack constructed with crooked 2x4s and framing nails, and roughing out a blank recycled from an old broken board. also snapped some shots from the beach on Saturday, although I didn't surf, thinking Sunday AM would be cleaner. It wasn't. Joanie shot some video using an old dv camcorder, but i need to install iMovie before I can upload any of the clips. Nothing great anyhow.
 
 
 
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Thursday, August 13, 2009

mendo caves (failed post from last weekend, 8/13)

overdue for a post, and i've actually snuck in a few windslop sessions in the last week and a half. last weekend we went up to mendo with iku & cory to kayak through these incredible little caves and natural tunnels. it was really cool, except i felt like the tour was a bit short. next time i'll paddle in on my surfboard and stay as long as i want. as for surfing, it's been pretty quiet this week. monday was a fun solid dawn patrol with ramin and ryan v, but since then, nothing really. it looks like this weekend will be serving up some bigger short period chop, i'm hoping for the best.
 
 
 

Thursday, August 6, 2009

thursday AM judah

small and weak but a few fun inside ones. nice sunny day
 
 
 
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Tuesday, August 4, 2009

chop slop drop hop pop

the clean conditions from earlier today decided not to wait for me to get home from work. hopefully tomorrow AM will be glassy. still, a few fun head highish pitching mushbangers, and a pretty sunset. lots of sea lions jumping around too.
 
 
 
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nice clean day at OB, board cam test run

The non-fisheye board cam actually captured more than i thought it would mounted to the front of my 6'5" JC. I anticipated having pictures of just my knees and below, but with the right angle and crouch I can get most of my body in the frame, and a little bit of the wave in the margins. I still prefer the wrist cam setup, because I'd rather have pictures of waves than my ugly mug paddling, but I'll have to try this again on an overhead hollow day this fall.