Wednesday, January 14, 2009

First session of the year

It was a perfect day for a recovering gimp surfer like me to hit the water for the first time in 09'. Small, clean, fun, and most importantly, minimal paddling required. I suited up in completely fresh rubber (5/4/3 West hooded suit & brand spanking new Oneill Mutant booties) and walked down to Kirkham. I'll write up a review of the wetsuit in a later post, for now lets focus on the session and the shoulder ;) I was able to walk all the way out, only having to duck under one or two 3-4 footers. Paddling actually felt ok at first, but I was careful not to extend too far with my right arm, so I was kindof taking gimpy half strokes. Kicking and paddling with my left arm alone felt really silly, but worked well enough if I was just lazily moving around. Popping up didn't cause me any noticeable pain, though I was consciously using mostly my left arm. It felt great to finally ride a wave after 5 weeks out of the water, the longest I've been dry since possibly last spring. A few nice 3-4 foot sets would roll through, and I caught a handful of good waves. Pulled into a backside barrel, but didn't make it out. After maybe 20-30 minutes my shoulder was feeling a bit tender from paddling for set waves, and started getting a little stiff. I sat and took some photos, and rode one in to the beach. Taking off the wetsuit proved to be the biggest challenge for my healing AC joint, but paddling definitely didn't improve things. I figure I'll buy some fins and try my luck on a bodyboard for the next few sessions, and keep up the physical therapy until my shoulder is a bit stronger. Overall though it was a memorable first session, and I'm stoked just to be back in the water. Can't wait to be dropping in on my friends on a bodyboard next session ;)
OB jan 15 2009

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