Friday, September 12, 2008

Session 57 & 58

Thursday evening & Friday AM. Swell has dropped significantly, and although it's still rideable, I'm yearning for the speed and power of last week's swell. This morning there were a lot of dungeness crabs scurrying around, I stepped on one by mistake. Also a family of seals, a few huge ones too.

As for waves, I caught one memorable left this Am, other than that most waves were fairly weak. These 2 sessions I was the only one on the beach, so I took it as an opportunity to try to teach myself layback snaps. However, I think it's really hard to perform a layback in terribly weak surf with barely any speed. I'm gonna keep working at it though, what's the point of surfing every day if I'm not learning anything new, right?

No comments: