Sunday, September 21, 2008

Session 65

Friday evening session, swell really picked up some size, and sets were overhead plus. Tide super low, you could see all the sand getting sucked up as the waves crashed. My first wave was a solid overhead right, and I took off kindof late. Got hung up on the top of the wave and didn't make the air drop. Got slammed right on my ass in the sand, the water was only a couple of feet deep. Ouch. Caught a few more to redeem myself, but I was freezing, as I was stupidly wearing a size 12 women's wetsuit, and I fortunately don't actually have the physique of a size 12 woman...I promised myself I'd never wear that thing again. If you know any size 12 chicks looking for suits, let me know!

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