Sunday, September 21, 2008
Session 66
Paddled out around 8:45 am with Ryan V into some pretty clean head high surf. Planned on meeting up with Ramin too, but we drifted pretty far north so by the time he hit the water we were probably somewhere around Lincoln...It was a good session though, some occasional outside sets were a few feet overhead, but elusive. Both of us caught a lot of fun waves, one wave I did a really nice cutback right in the pocket, threw some pretty good spray out the back. The most memorable wave of the day by far though was one where I went for a late drop only to find Ryan sitting right in front of me at the bottom of the wave. At the last second I dove headfirst off my board, and Ryan went under and ditched his board. The wave mowed both of us down, and when we surfaced Ryan and I were right on top of each other, with our boards and leashes all crossed up. Nobody got hurt and no boards dinged, and we were hysterical laughing about it.
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