Friday AM, warbly but glassy and decent 3-5 footers. Only 2 other guys out. Paddled into some solid lefts, one of which I tried to bottom turn and then position myself in the pocket. Must've been too close to the barrel, as the lip knocked me off of my feet and I fell horizontally onto my board, bruising my arm on my board.
After that, I redeemed myself by sticking a super late drop into a pitching left. Tosh witnessed the drop from the shoulder, and after paddling back out we chatted for a bit about Indo.
Monday, October 27, 2008
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