Thursday, May 7, 2009
fatass linda mar jiggly jetty
yesterday wasn't nearly as big as Surfline forecasted, the shitheads. Linda Mar was warbly, fat, and sets were about head high. Good enough size, but not connecting well like the previous days, and just not as much fun. I was with Taylor and Ryan, and we decided to hop back in the cars and head down to the jetty. Checked Montara on the way down, and it looked decent, although I didn't notice anyone out. Jetty was OK, some decent wedges refracting off of the jetty, with some really punchy and fast chest - shoulder high sets. Ryan missed Taylor and I in the parking lot, so drove around for a while looking for us. By the time he found us and decided to suit up and paddle out, I had to end my session and scoot to work. It was a fun session though, not barreling clean, but some pretty fun walls and sections on the better sets. One wave I actually was able to get my fins free and whip my tail around over the top of the wave, but I didn't stick it. Still, that's the closest I've ever gotten to pulling off one of those tail wafts. I had been reading and analyzing how Dane Reynolds does those, and sliding your front foot forward when the nose of your board leaves the wave and kicking the tail out seems to work, provided you have enough speed to release off the top. Too bad I only seem to have enough speed to do that occasionally, but I seem to be getting more consistent, so a short term goal of mine now is to learn how to stick those. The physics of it seems very similar to doing a lipslide or a disaster on a skateboard, so I think it will just take a lot of speed runs, practice, and wipeouts until I get the hang of it. I'm heading down to Davenport to meet up with this guy Wu who is shaping me a 5'9" fish, a little early bday present for myself...Can't wait to meet him and see what artwork he has in mind for the board, one of the other finished boards that he showed me has this wild graphic on the bottom of a shark puking a rainbow. It's out there, but really unique so I'm looking forward to getting and learning how to ride a fish well.
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