leash free bonzer session in Huntington

down in OC for momma's day, and spend saturday with the fam and the dogs at Huntington cliffs. Eric is the man, and let me borrow his 6'3" bonzer, a real pretty artsy board. unfortunately, i forgot my leash, and the waves were 4-6 and chopped. the bonzer was a fun ride, easy to get into waves and felt drivey through sections, but I couldnt get used to the vague feeling turning it, but it was my first time on a bonzer and i didnt have a leash so i was being conservative. despite my best efforts, i wiped out twice, once on a right, and then trying to pigdog a left. pearled both times, and had to swim all the way back to the beach after the stray board. i ended up swimming almost as much as surfing, but it was a blast. anyways, gotta run, mother's day brunch is a callin'...happy mothers day!