Sunday dp @ Kirkham

Hit the water at 9:15 after checking Stokereport.com and hearing it was 'fair'. It was - a bit of paddling to get through the messy inside section, but once you're out there it was pretty clean, and the waves had plenty of juice. Only one other guy out on the north end of the beach, I guess everyone else was sleeping or headed south for sunnier skies. In any case, I caught a few seriously fast rides, hitting the lip pretty hard and keeping my speed. One solid backside hack off the top that felt great, and one closeout barrel that I got super deep into before getting smashed into the sandbar. I'm getting more consistent with pulling off rail-grab cutbacks too without burying my board, the peaky fast drops gave me ample opportunity to practice. I wiped out plenty too, the waves were steep and if I take off too deep the inside rail of my quad seems to lose its grip pretty easily. I'd love to try a thruster setup on a board with similar dimensions, I bet it would rip in more powerful conditions. If I ever get around to finishing the shaping bay I'll have to experiment with that idea...