Monday, September 14, 2009

monday dp

paddled out around 7:15. cleaner conditions, down slightly, but still a lot of paddling and duckdiving. got smashed more than a few times, but once I made it out there were plenty of clean faces, sets in the 6-8 range, with some plus waves rolling through now and again. compared to yesterday's chop, the semi-clean faces made it much easier to make smooth bottom turns and cutbacks. I got some really good rides, linking together turns and staying as close to the pocket as I could. did a clean grab rail cutback on a solid 8 footer too, was hooting for myself after that one. for some reason i was the only one out there as far as i could see, despite the conditions being fair and big. i guess everyone is too taxed from this weekend of powerful surf. i didn't really get any good pictures because i forgot to charge the batteries in my camera. duh.
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