Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Session 16 - Tuesday DP OB

Glass! This morning I woke up and checked the surfline report. 2-3 and poor-fair. At OB that means it's pretty good! Suited up, kissed Joan goodbye and ran down to the beach. Was greeted with some really clean but weakish lines. There was one guy already out at Kirkham sitting on a good peak, so I paddled out in his direction. The waves were a bit weak, there was hardly any wind at all, but the shape was good and finding shoulders was easy. Started out with some decent little rides, and chatted a bit with the only other surfer out there. It was nice to have the entire beach to ourselves. Everyone else was missing out. The waves picked up a bit throughout the session, and sets were solid shoulder high peaks with fast drops and gentle walls. I surfed for an hour and a half, rushed home and now I'm chillin on the shuttle. Perfect way to start a Tuesday if you ask me.

No comments: