It was a bit harder to drag myself out of bed this morning, it was foggy and misty and cool out. I got a late start, paddling out around 7:45. The wind is blowing onshore stronger than yesterday, and the surf is small and crumbly. 2-4 and mushy.
Worth a paddle anyways, and I actually caught ~8 waves. Totally kooked on one of them, slipped trying to pop up, tried again and totally ate it on my second attempt. The rest of my rides were cleaner, though most of the waves weren't really walling up so it was usually just a little drop, a few pumps, and a mushy lip bash, if you can even call it that.
In any case, it was worth the exercise and the weather actually got really nice out by the time I was done surfing. At the end of my sesh I took a long boogie to the beach and then just floated around and played in the water for a while. As relentless and punishing Ocean Beach can be, I still feel really lucky to live so close to the beach...
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1 comment:
im sure the waves were glad to see you, mushy or no mush. your determination makes me happy.
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