Session 6 - Tuesday AM

I was hoping to score some surf on my visit home to NY, but it was all ankle to knee high slop, so I never made it to the beach. Fortunately, I came home to a building swell, a few feet overhead at OB. Wind conditions looked promising for the dawn patrol on Tuesday, so I tore myself out of bed. Hit the water a little before 7, and we rewarded with 5-7ft glassy surf, with a few shoulders here and there for the taking. Lots of closeouts, and not barreling clean, but nice fast drops and walls before the usual closeout. There were a handful of guys on it, but not so many that you actually have to wait your turn for a wave. I surfed for about an hour, and towards the end of my session got caught inside of a big set and was punished for it. I was already getting a bit noodle armed, but tried to power through the set, duck diving wall after wall of white water. I was actually making good progress, but just as I was almost to the outside, a wave doubled up and I was too late for a clean duck dive. I made a last second attempt to shove my board through this 6 ft wave, only to have the lip come smashing down on the back of my head, slamming my chin into my board and taking me over the falls. It was a humbling experience, and as good a time as any to head back in and get ready for work.